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PostPosted: Mon Oct 30, 2017 9:53 pm 
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Joined: Mon Nov 30, 2015 11:44 am
Posts: 35
Location: Wilsonville, Oregon
I'm leaving the finish welding on the outer panels until after the power train is completed & out of the car..
For a 3rd member I purchased a ladder bar unit out of 9 sec. drag race car from a friend...that's the next project.
Going to stuff the widest tires I can out back...so we'll see...


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 30, 2017 9:57 pm 
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Location: Wilsonville, Oregon
Regarding the tranny we were able to use the stock x-member out the the '78 truck the 460 came out of...will finish welding & box up spacers when body is off frame.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 17, 2017 1:01 pm 
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Joined: Mon Nov 30, 2015 11:44 am
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Location: Wilsonville, Oregon
Ordered Artillery Wheels from Wheelsmih. 15" rims, 14" wide, 4" back space for the rear, 15" rims, 5" wide, 3" backspace fronts. Will be using M/T Sportsman S/R tires 15" section width, 13" thread rears, 7" section width, 5" thread fronts (pretty close to stock tire size on fronts)

The wheel tubs are being cut away from floor. They will be pushed out about 2" toward the body & widened in the middle to accommodate the tires. The frame will be cut & notched inward to clear the rims & tires. I plan on using the stock "kick up" if possible for over the axle.

The ride height is 5"


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 26, 2017 11:36 pm 
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Location: Wilsonville, Oregon
Because the motor is set as low as possible in the frame the drive line will actually go slightly up ward to the 3rd member. A clearance circle was cut in to the cross member & the floor at the rear will be reshaped. we a going with about 3 degrees at the tranny & pumpkin.

I decided to move the kick up inward to inside the tire/rim. As I am running out of room at the rear behind the 3rd member i'm going with adjustable coil over shocks instead of airbags...just not enough space for all the pumps, tanks, etc. to run the system.

the kick up is made of 1/8th" 2 x 3 box steel. it's kicked up about 12 ". the shocks will be mounted behind the 3rd member. looks like the 5/8's anti-roll bar will be mounted on top & ahead of the 3rd member.

Still have to determine spring rate, shock length & shock angle.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 04, 2017 9:41 pm 
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Location: Wilsonville, Oregon
Well...I planned on using the ladder bar set up with the 9 inch housing but the ladders won't fit under the body without cutting out slots in the floor...so I'm switching gears & going with a triangulated 4-link set up.

I have some nylon/stainless rod ends left over from a drag race project & some aircraft quality chrome-moly tubing that will be used to build the system..

For custom brackets I've cut the proper length out of a piece of 2x4x1/8 box steel then split the cut out piece lengthwise to create double sided bracket that the rod ends will bolt onto...the photo shows the lower arm tacked in place...it's parallel to the ground, the top bars will be angled down a couple of degrees toward the front of the car for more anti-squat pressure. (this set up is common on solid axle set ups in passenger cars (fox body mustangs) except the top bars point down toward the pumpkin to give a softer response to go pedal pressure...they will be angled out 30 degrees from the pumpkin to the frame...(visit the Art Morrison website for images of 4-link types)

This eliminates the need for a panhard rod or watts link. With the shortened 3rd member & 15 inch wide tires there is little room to fit the proper length rod...so the 4-link is the best option in this case...


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 09, 2018 12:43 am 
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Location: Wilsonville, Oregon
We completed the 4 link. Needed to buy some extra rod ends with reverse threads...Speedway Motors or Chassis Shop.

Using information from Matt Jones Mechanical Engineer Art Morrison Enterprises the upper arms were set up at 6 degrees down, the lower arms at 1 degree up. This allows for better bite on jamming the go petal... I had several sets from a prior race car project that were all right hand thread that were needed 1.25" I.D. chromemoly tubing which I had in stock...but the speedway motors left hand thread rod ends measured 1" O.D.

My son has a lathe so he cut down some tubing that was a perfect sleeve to take up the gap, thanks Son...
We used stainless mig wire to weld the ends on...Strange stuff to weld, like lots of heat..

Next we mounted the Shocks. Ideal angle is 20-30 degrees, but since the shocks had to be mounted so close together I choose 20 degrees for more spring power.. We will mount a 5/8" anti-roll bars front & back to help control handling.


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4link1.jpg
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 09, 2018 12:49 am 
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Location: Wilsonville, Oregon
mounted some 28 " junk tires from & back to see where the ride height would be, about 5 inches all around...the rears are 29 " to the rear will be up 1/2" & you will see only the bottom 1/4" of the tire & rim...it's a roller!

You don't appreciate what it takes to create a cool rod until you do it. I'm keeping a journal of the time & money spent to finish this ride...


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4link2.jpg
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 10, 2018 6:11 pm 
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Location: Upstate,South Carolina
wagon2014 wrote:
mounted some 28 " junk tires from & back to see where the ride height would be, about 5 inches all around...the rears are 29 " to the rear will be up 1/2" & you will see only the bottom 1/4" of the tire & rim...it's a roller!

You don't appreciate what it takes to create a cool rod until you do it. I'm keeping a journal of the time & money spent to finish this ride...


James,I am well aware of all the work you have put into the wagon but I might offer you some unsolicited advice,don't ever start tallying up the receipts.

I had a file cabinet that I put every receipt in it and when I was done with the car I started adding them up,I got about 1/4 of them adding and quit,I could see I was in deep. :roll:

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I'm from a two tin cans and a string era trying to muddle my way through Cyberspace!

Photos of the Ranch Wagon,, 348 images and the Wagon is finally a driver!
http://public.fotki.com/hotrodprimer/hotrodprimer-1/


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 14, 2018 8:46 am 
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Location: Houston
This is a great build. I may not comment a lot, but I am watching it.

And yes....I agree with Danny. My car doesn't even have a proper paint job or interior and I stopped looking at the receipts a long time ago.

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Check out my 54 Ford Project Blog
http://mainlineford.wordpress.com


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 20, 2018 9:49 pm 
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Joined: Mon Nov 30, 2015 11:44 am
Posts: 35
Location: Wilsonville, Oregon
thx for the advise...i've built rods for others & kept a tally for them...if you're worrying about how much money will be spent, get a new hobby...the pleasure you get from building & then driving your rod is priceless...

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