'54 Ford Club of America - Forum

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It is currently Thu Nov 23, 2017 11:43 am

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 23, 2017 11:05 am 
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Location: Wilsonville, Oregon
Driver's side rocker...only the front foot of so was rotted & the top surface. Rather then tear is all out we replaced the front section, left the back 3/4's, but cut out the rotted top surface. Then we cut the new rocker into three pieces: front, back top, & repurposed the bottom 3/4 for a rotted section behind the rocker on the driver's side.

These rockers were expensive so we are going to use every bit of it we can.

Lots of fitting time & welding spot by spot to prevent warpage. As with all field cars there is inner panel rusting that has to be repaired...


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 23, 2017 11:09 am 
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Location: Wilsonville, Oregon
rust repair photos

This may look nasty now but after some grinding & finish bondo skim, fill primer & paint it will look like one solid piece. Rock solid strong as well...


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 24, 2017 9:22 pm 
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Location: Upstate,South Carolina
Looking great,I remember doing this with our wagon.

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I'm from a two tin cans and a string era trying to muddle my way through Cyberspace!

Photos of the Ranch Wagon,, 348 images and the Wagon is finally a driver!
http://public.fotki.com/hotrodprimer/hotrodprimer-1/


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 28, 2017 9:29 am 
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Location: Wilsonville, Oregon
Hot Rod Primer.

Man you had it worse then me...congrats. on all the work you did to bring your wagon back to life!

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 11, 2017 11:06 pm 
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Location: Wilsonville, Oregon
front interior rot eliminated, fire wall finished.
rather then re-invent the wheel, i used the center piece of the firewall out of the 78 truck the motor/tranny came from.
it's very strong. we positioned it to fit properly around the drive train then fabbed panels to fill the spaces. although it looks wide from the pics it fits close enough around the motor to allow access to plugs, pull the tall valve covers & have ample air flow to keep it cool. all the welds will be ground down flat but not show finished as the area will be covered with insulation...after finishing the exterior body work we are going to concentrating on placing the 9 inch, narrowed drag race, ladder bar 3rd member & setting up the steering column.

I purchased a nice $800 flaming river unit for $125 that would not fit in a guy's pick up. just ordered nickle plated linkage/u-joints from South West Speed to connect column to mustang ii rack ($200 for set needed) about $100+ less then anyone else..


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 11, 2017 11:07 pm 
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Location: Wilsonville, Oregon
4th photo


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 18, 2017 1:18 pm 
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James,how far did you have to set back the firewall for the big block,looks like a lot from the photos.

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I'm from a two tin cans and a string era trying to muddle my way through Cyberspace!

Photos of the Ranch Wagon,, 348 images and the Wagon is finally a driver!
http://public.fotki.com/hotrodprimer/hotrodprimer-1/


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 30, 2017 9:38 pm 
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Location: Wilsonville, Oregon
Danny,

We went 7 inches into the dash area from the firewall surface. The hole looks big now, but when the tall valve covers the semi-highrise manifold & carb or fitech throttle body on bolted on the area will get small.

We finely got all the rot out of the body, inner & outer panels.

On the inner panels we didn't try to make a butt weld fit, I cut out the rot, then cut a plate to fit 1/4 inch larger then hole, held it in place & welded away. Adds extra strength was faster & easier...plus it will be covered with undercoating so no one is going to see it (unless they want to slide under a wagon that's 4 inches off the grass... :lol:

The outer panels were formed with an english wheel, plastic faced hammer & 4 different sized tube forms (see image). We also tack welded each piece & body hammered the more difficult compound curves as we went...that way we got the fit & shape we wanted without worrying about warpage.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 30, 2017 9:45 pm 
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Location: Wilsonville, Oregon
Forming tools
the table saw was purchased for $75, it's cast iron, i bought a sheet metal blade for it so I can accurately cut the 20 gauge sheet.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 30, 2017 9:46 pm 
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Inner patches:


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