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 Post subject: Replacing the main seals
PostPosted: Mon Jan 16, 2017 8:14 pm 
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Location: Lewisberry Pennsylvania
So I'm awesome at not stopping once I dig into something. I have the pan off the 239. should I replace the front and rear seals? I've never seen this motor run, I was told it ran 10 years ago, and believe it, but it hasn't been inspected since 1978. There was a good amount of oil on the front motor stabilizer mount, but that could be from elsewhere. If I can change the seals without pulling the crank I think I should, but I'm not sure thats possible. I see in the TSM I can change the bearings and I've read for some other motors I can change the seals, but it's honestly not something I've actually done. I'm at the point I wanted to stop on my tear down. Can you just push out the old seals and push in new ones? Is it more involved. The oil pan took a bit more than the manual showed me too, but that may be due to motor mount and suspension wear.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 16, 2017 9:46 pm 
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The rear seal can be changed without totally pulling the crank, but it must be loosened and pulled down so the bottom half of the seal can be inserted. It is possible to replace the rear seal without loosening up the crank by using a tool called, I think, a chinese snake or something like that, but is a iffy job in my opinion.

1954 engines were pretty much a one off. Just make sure the 54 uses then same rear seal as the later Yblocks or is available before pulling things apart. it may be the same, I just don't know. I'm pretty sure the same front seal was used for all years.

As far as the front goes, you have to take off the timing gear cover as the seal is inserted from the inside. One of the problems with the front seal is the possibility that the old seal has ground a ring in the crank snout. If that happened, you have to put a sleeve on the crank snout. Any machine shop should be able to supply the sleeve

If you go ahead with replacing the rear main seal, let us know - there are some tricks to make it seal good.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 16, 2017 10:53 pm 
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any downside to just pulling the crank while in the motor? No sure how it connects to the transmission or if it just slides out (Ford-o-matic). I mean, I read about it being done in "Grapes of Wrath", I think that was an old Hudson. I'm not totally opposed to it if it'll save trouble down the road.. though I'm getting close to a full in car rebuild. Might as well pull pistons from the bottom then and check rings right? ugh... I should just bolt it together and see what I have huh?

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 17, 2017 9:20 pm 
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If you are going to pull the crank, take the engine out and put it on a stand. You can't do a decent job, even if the car is on a lift.


Frantz wrote:
any downside to just pulling the crank while in the motor? No sure how it connects to the transmission or if it just slides out (Ford-o-matic). I mean, I read about it being done in "Grapes of Wrath", I think that was an old Hudson. I'm not totally opposed to it if it'll save trouble down the road.. though I'm getting close to a full in car rebuild. Might as well pull pistons from the bottom then and check rings right? ugh... I should just bolt it together and see what I have huh?

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 18, 2017 7:56 am 
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Bolt it back together it is! I got the car cheap and I didn't want it to be a major project at this point in time (I have plenty of them). I just want to get it running, avoid damaging anything, check the brakes, and put new tires on and enjoy!

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